Ashlee Williams, MD (Host): Are collagen powders and supplements flooding your social media feeds? They promise smoother skin, stronger hair, and healthier joints. But do collagen supplements actually work?

Welcome to The Healthier You Podcast. I'm Dr. Ashlee Williams. And today, I'm talking with Dr. Randa Khoury, a board-certified dermatologist here at Kaiser Permanente, to break down what the science shows. We'll explore how collagen works in the body and whether supplements can make a difference. Dr. Khoury, thanks so much for being here.

Randa Khoury, MD: Thank you for having me.

Host: So glad to talk about this important topic. Let's start with the basics. What is collagen and why is it important for your skin?

Randa Khoury, MD: Collagen is a protein that is naturally found in many of our tissues. And in the skin, collagen is one of the things that gives the skin that kind of bouncy texture that we all associate with youth and vitality.

Host: Who doesn't love bouncy textured skin?

Randa Khoury, MD: Right.

Host: So, what about the collagen supplements? How do they claim to work?

Randa Khoury, MD: The collagen supplements would have you believe that you can orally take these supplements and somehow, by a miracle, have that collagen delivered directly into your tissues, like your joints and your skin. But in actuality, the collagen supplements are really a source of protein that, when you ingest them in any way, whether it's a powder or a pill, are then broken down in your gut into its component parts, specifically into amino acids.

Now, there is partial truth to the fact that those amino acids are then used by your body as the building blocks of new proteins, including collagen. But there is no truth to the concept or the marketing gimmick that eating collagen will deliver collagen directly into your skin.

Host: Are there any studies that support any of these claims?

Randa Khoury, MD: There are several studies that have been done that are very conveniently done by the marketers of these products. So, there will be many things that say that they measured skin elasticity or skin hydration, which is very difficult to quantify at six, eight, and 12 weeks after certain ingestions of proteins. But those studies really need to be taken with a grain of salt. First of all, the final outcomes, the measures that they're measuring are very difficult to actually put on any type of a grading scale.

And then, the other thing to think about is the duration of time with which you would have to be using these products to see a meaningful difference. Just like aging isn't linear, our response to these products isn't going to be either. And then, it kind of comes back to just the physiology of how these are working. If we are intaking protein, and we're giving our body the building blocks to make new proteins, it stands to reason that we may see some improvement over time. But are there any studies that really are independently done that substantiate their claims? Unfortunately, there are not.

Host: I mean, we always hear about the benefits of it, right? Everything on social media, collagen's so great. But are there risk or downsides to taking the collagen?

Randa Khoury, MD: Absolutely. So, one thing to think about is that all of these collagens that are on the market are derived from animal proteins, typically they're bovine sources. They come from cows. Sometimes there are also some that come from pigs. The ones that claim that they are vegan or vegetarian are not actually able to deliver the amino acids of the building blocks of protein. So, they're usually an adulterated form of collagen that has no science behind it.

So, the first thing to think about, especially if you are someone who has a diet that restricts animal products, is that these probably won't be appropriate for you. Secondarily, none of these are subject to the same type of regulations as our medical products are, as our prescription products are. So, there are very few things that are required to bring one of these supplements to market. They can contain contaminants, they can contain heavy metals. So outside of their efficacy claims, there can be some safety considerations with them as well.

Host: So, what are the best science-backed ways to produce and protect our collagen naturally?

Randa Khoury, MD: That is the single best question, because it really gets to the heart of this, doesn't it? When we talk about we all just want to preserve our most beautiful skin and to help ourselves age as gracefully as possible. And really, that comes down to lifestyle factors over supplements every time. As a board-certified dermatologist, you know, the first thing I'm going to say to you is sunscreen.

Host: Absolutely. Sunscreen.

Randa Khoury, MD: The sun is not your friend. So, making sure you're wearing SPF 30 to 50 every single day, rain or shine as I am wearing right now, because I'm sitting by this beautiful window, is the single most important thing you can do to protect your skin against environmental oxidative stress that's going to start to break down your collagen over time.

Aside from that, thinking about making sure that you're striving for eight hours of good quality sleep at night. Sleep is when we break down our body's waste products and when our body is able to metabolize new proteins for our skin. Sleep is super important. And then, avoiding things that can degrade our natural collagen, even outside of sun exposure. And those two big things lifestyle-wise are avoiding smoking and avoiding diets that are high in processed or simple sugared foods. Both of those things can attach to our collagen fibers and signal to our system to start breaking them down. So when we think about textured or crepey skin that's lost its elasticity, that's lost its bounce, sun, smoking, and sugary foods are three things that directly contribute to collagen degradation, as well as not getting enough sleep.

And then, in talking about what type of things should we be looking for in our diet, most of the things that collagen supplements are aiming to sell you, we can easily get through eating healthy foods, focusing on lean proteins, green leafy vegetables, and prioritizing those as kind of the main cornerstones of our diet can give us everything we need just as part of our regular diet without having to look to a supplement to fill things in.

Host: What about the people that are like, "Okay, I know I can get this through my diet and I know how to protect my skin. I'm still curious. I want to try a supplement?" What do you recommend?

Randa Khoury, MD: One of the things that I always recommend is make sure you very carefully read the label and know what you're actually taking. Things that contain collagens generally should be looked at as protein supplements. So, look at, are there things on the label that tell you that this has been independently tested and that it is free from heavy metals? Look for the amount of protein that you are getting per serving. And also, look for if it contains other things that you maybe don't want. So, thinking about things as far as what are you actually putting into your body. Reading the label is super important. Things that I would look for are making sure that the collagen source is derived from something that is acceptable to you. So, making sure that it fits in with your dietary restrictions. And then, also just kind of checking in with your body. So if you've been taking this protein supplement for a few days, a few weeks, a few months, and you're not feeling your best, especially if you're having any gastrointestinal issues, if you're not seeing any noticeable benefits, have a really low threshold to kind of discontinue it.

Host: Agree. I also think it's an important conversation to have with your doctor to make sure that your supplements that you're taking over-the-counter aren't interfering with any prescribed medications.

Randa Khoury, MD: So important.

Host: So important. Thanks for this great information, Dr. Khoury. We learned a lot about collagen and what we can do to keep our skin healthy. Here are the top takeaways. One, collagen is essential for skin structure and firmness. Collagen production naturally declines with age, unfortunately. And environmental factors like sun exposure-- wear that sunscreen-- smoking-- don't smoke-- and high sugar diets accelerate its breakdown.

Supplements aren't magic solutions. While they provide amino acids, your body uses them wherever needed, not specifically in the skin. People who already get enough protein are unlikely to see a difference from supplements. There's limited evidence to support marketing claims. Small companies-sponsored studies show minor benefits and no large independent trials confirm these results.

Due to lack of regulation, supplements can be pricey, mislabeled, or even contaminated. Protecting collagen naturally is safer and more effective. Wearing sunscreen daily, eating a whole food protein-rich diet, getting quality sleep and avoiding smoking will support your skin's natural collagen.

For more information from our experts, visit kp.org/doctor and listen to more episodes of Healthier You wherever you get your podcast. If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe and share it with others who may find it helpful. From all of us at Kaiser Permanente, be well.